Long-haired Shih Tzu beside grooming brushes and combs for the Best Brushes for Long-Haired Dogs article.

Best Brushes for Long-Haired Dogs

Long-haired dogs need more than a quick surface brush.

The coat may look smooth on top while tangles are forming underneath. Hair behind the ears, beneath the legs, around the tail, under the collar, and near the belly can mat quietly until the dog becomes uncomfortable or the coat is too tight to brush safely.

The best brush for a long-haired dog depends on the coat texture, coat length, thickness, grooming tolerance, and whether the dog is already tangled or matted.

For most long-haired dogs, the best setup is not one brush. It is a small toolkit:

  • a brush for separating and maintaining the coat
  • a metal comb for checking your work
  • a gentle detangling product for small tangles
  • a professional groomer when the coat is too tight or painful to manage at home

This guide explains the best brush types for long-haired dogs, what each one does, and when not to use them.

Best Overall Brush Type for Many Long-Haired Dogs: Slicker Brush

A slicker brush is one of the most useful brushes for many long-haired dogs because it can help separate the coat, lift loose hair, and work through developing tangles before they become mats.

A slicker brush has many fine pins set close together. Some have softer pins, some have firmer pins, and some are designed with longer pins for thicker or deeper coats.

A slicker brush may be useful for:

  • Shih Tzus
  • Maltese
  • Yorkshire Terriers
  • Havanese
  • Lhasa Apsos
  • long-haired mixed breeds
  • curly or wavy coats
  • dogs with feathering on the legs, ears, chest, or tail

The key is choosing the right slicker for the dog’s coat and using it gently.

A slicker brush should not be dragged harshly across the skin. Repeated scraping can irritate the skin and make the dog dislike grooming.

For long-haired dogs, use the slicker in small sections. Hold the hair near the skin to reduce pulling, then brush from the ends of the coat inward.

What to look for in a slicker brush

Choose a slicker brush with:

  • pins long enough to reach the coat depth
  • a size that fits the dog’s body
  • a smaller head for ears, legs, and tight areas
  • comfortable handle control
  • smooth pin tips that do not feel overly sharp
  • enough flexibility to avoid harsh scraping

Large slickers can be efficient on bigger dogs, but they may be hard to control on a small dog’s legs, armpits, and face area.

Best Gentle Brush for Flowing Long Coats: Pin Brush

A pin brush can be a good choice for long, silky, flowing coats that are already being maintained.

Pin brushes have longer pins that are usually more widely spaced than slicker brush pins. Many have rounded tips. They are often gentler for dogs with fine, flowing hair when the coat is not packed with tangles.

A pin brush may work well for:

  • long silky coats
  • feathering on ears and legs
  • maintained Shih Tzu coats
  • Maltese coats
  • Yorkie coats
  • long spaniel coats
  • dogs that dislike firmer slicker brushes

A pin brush is not always enough for thick tangles. It can glide through the outer layer and miss knots closer to the skin. That is why a comb check is still important.

What to look for in a pin brush

Choose a pin brush with:

  • smooth rounded pin tips
  • enough pin length for the coat
  • a soft but stable cushion
  • a brush head that matches the dog’s size
  • no loose or bent pins
  • a comfortable grip

A pin brush is often better for maintenance than for fixing a coat that is already starting to mat.

Best Tool for Checking Hidden Tangles: Metal Grooming Comb

A metal grooming comb is one of the most important tools for long-haired dogs.

The brush helps maintain the coat. The comb tells you whether the coat is truly brushed through.

A long-haired dog can look neat after brushing while hidden tangles remain close to the skin. A comb helps reveal those areas.

A good grooming comb is especially useful for:

  • behind the ears
  • under the collar
  • armpits
  • chest
  • belly
  • inner legs
  • tail
  • feet
  • sanitary areas
  • beard or mouth area

For many long-haired dogs, choose a comb with both wider and narrower teeth. Start with the wider side. Use the narrower side only when the coat is already moving freely.

Never force the comb through resistance. If the comb catches, stop and inspect the area.

Why the comb matters so much

Many owners brush the surface and assume the coat is fine.

Then the groomer finds mats underneath.

A comb check helps prevent that problem. If the comb cannot pass through the coat gently, the coat is not fully brushed.

Best Brush for Thick Long Coats: Long-Pin Slicker Brush

Some long-haired dogs have more coat depth than a regular brush can reach.

A long-pin slicker brush may be better for dogs with dense, thick, or curly long coats because the longer pins can reach deeper into the coat when used correctly.

This may help with:

  • curly coats
  • wavy coats
  • thick long coats
  • doodle-type coats
  • dense mixed coats
  • long coats with heavy undercoat influence

The goal is not to scratch the skin. The goal is to separate the coat in sections.

A long-pin slicker can be very useful, but it can also be uncomfortable if used too roughly.

Use light pressure. Work slowly. Stop if the dog becomes tense, pulls away, cries, or shows signs of pain.

Best Brush for Sensitive Long-Haired Dogs: Soft Pin Brush

Some dogs hate brushing because the tool pulls too much, the sessions are too long, or past grooming was uncomfortable.

A soft pin brush may be a better starting point for a sensitive long-haired dog, especially when the coat is not badly tangled.

It may help with:

  • dogs that dislike slicker brushes
  • fine silky coats
  • light daily maintenance
  • short calm grooming sessions
  • brushing after a bath and dry
  • keeping the coat neat between full sessions

A softer brush will not solve tight mats. But it may help a dog become more comfortable with regular handling.

For sensitive dogs, keep sessions short. Reward calm behavior. Work on easy areas first before handling ears, paws, legs, tail, or belly.

Best Brush for Long-Haired Double-Coated Dogs: Pin Brush Plus Undercoat Rake

Some long-haired dogs have a double coat. These coats may include a soft undercoat beneath longer outer guard hairs.

Examples can include some:

  • Golden Retrievers
  • Australian Shepherds
  • Collies
  • Shelties
  • long-haired German Shepherds
  • Huskies
  • mixed breeds with dense undercoat

For long-haired double-coated dogs, a pin brush or slicker brush may help maintain the outer coat, but an undercoat rake may be needed during shedding periods.

An undercoat rake is designed to remove loose undercoat that may otherwise pack close to the skin.

Use caution. Do not drag aggressively. Do not use the rake like a scraper. Do not continue if the skin becomes red or irritated.

A professional groomer can show you which undercoat tool fits the dog’s coat.

Best Finishing Brush: Soft Bristle Brush

A soft bristle brush is not the main tool for most long-haired dogs, but it can be useful as a finishing step.

It may help smooth the coat, distribute natural oils, and polish the outer layer after the coat has already been properly brushed and combed.

A bristle brush is best for:

  • finishing
  • smoothing
  • light daily touch-ups
  • short or medium areas
  • dogs with sensitive skin
  • already-maintained coats

It is not the right tool for deep tangles, undercoat removal, or mat prevention on its own.

What About Dematting Tools?

Dematting tools, mat splitters, and bladed combs are sold for removing mats, but they should be used carefully.

Many of these tools contain sharp blades. They can cut hair, but they can also cut skin if used incorrectly.

A dematting tool may be appropriate only for small, loose mats that are not tight against the skin and only when the person using the tool understands the risk.

Avoid using bladed dematting tools when:

  • the mat is tight to the skin
  • the dog is moving or resisting
  • the skin cannot be seen
  • the mat is near the ears, armpits, groin, tail, or face
  • the dog has wounds, redness, odor, swelling, or pain
  • the coat is severely matted over large areas

Severe matting should not be treated as an ordinary brushing problem.

Read Dematly’s guide on what to do when your dog is severely matted before attempting difficult coat removal.

Best Brush Setup by Long-Haired Coat Type

Different long coats need different tools.

Long silky coat

Best starting setup:

  • pin brush
  • soft slicker brush
  • metal grooming comb
  • dog-safe detangling mist for small tangles

This type of coat often tangles behind the ears, under the legs, around the tail, and where collars or harnesses rub.

Long curly or wavy coat

Best starting setup:

  • long-pin slicker brush
  • metal grooming comb
  • detangling or conditioning spray
  • professional grooming schedule

Curly and wavy coats can hide mats beneath the surface. Brushing must reach the lower coat.

Long double coat

Best starting setup:

  • pin brush or slicker brush
  • wide-tooth metal comb
  • undercoat rake
  • professional deshedding help when needed

The undercoat may pack during shedding seasons. Regular maintenance helps prevent tight clumps.

Long fine coat

Best starting setup:

  • soft pin brush
  • gentle slicker brush
  • metal comb
  • light detangling product

Fine coats may break or pull easily, so pressure matters.

Long mixed coat

Best starting setup:

  • medium slicker brush
  • combination metal comb
  • smaller brush for problem areas
  • groomer guidance if the coat changes by section

Mixed coats can require different tools on different parts of the body.

How to Brush a Long-Haired Dog Without Missing Mats

The method matters as much as the brush.

A good routine looks like this:

  1. Start with a calm dog on a non-slip surface.
  2. Check the coat with your fingers.
  3. Separate a small section of hair.
  4. Hold the coat near the skin to reduce pulling.
  5. Brush from the ends of the hair inward.
  6. Work slowly through one section at a time.
  7. Use a comb to check the finished section.
  8. Move to the next section only when the comb passes gently.
  9. Stop if the dog appears painful or distressed.

Do not brush only the top layer.

Long-haired dogs often mat underneath the surface, especially in high-friction areas.

Areas That Need Extra Attention

Long-haired dogs commonly mat in places where the coat rubs, bends, traps moisture, or moves often.

Check these areas regularly:

  • behind the ears
  • under the collar
  • under the harness
  • armpits
  • chest
  • belly
  • groin
  • inner thighs
  • tail and tail base
  • feet and toes
  • beard and mouth area
  • areas under sweaters or coats

A dog may look well groomed across the back but still have mats hidden behind the ears or under the legs.

Should You Brush Before Bathing?

Yes, in most cases.

Brushing before bathing helps remove loose tangles before water tightens them. Bathing a tangled long coat can make knots harder to separate.

Before bathing a long-haired dog:

  • check the coat with your fingers
  • brush in sections
  • use a comb to find hidden tangles
  • address small loose tangles gently
  • avoid bathing a severely matted coat at home

After the bath, dry the coat thoroughly. Damp long hair can tangle as it dries.

For more prevention guidance, read How to Prevent Dog Matting.

How Often Should You Brush a Long-Haired Dog?

The answer depends on the coat.

Some long-haired dogs need daily attention. Others may do well with several short sessions per week.

A practical starting point:

Daily quick check

Check behind the ears, under the collar, armpits, belly, tail, and harness areas.

Several times per week

Brush high-risk areas and use a comb to check for hidden tangles.

Weekly full coat check

Work through the full coat in sections and note any areas that repeatedly tangle.

Before and after baths

Brush before bathing and comb-check after the coat is dry.

Between professional appointments

Ask the groomer what areas are matting and how often your dog should return.

A beautiful long coat requires consistent care. If the routine is too hard to maintain, a shorter haircut may be kinder and more realistic.

Signs You Are Using the Wrong Brush

The brush may not be right for the dog if:

  • it only smooths the surface
  • the comb still catches everywhere
  • the dog flinches or avoids brushing
  • the skin becomes red after grooming
  • the brush pulls too much hair
  • mats keep forming in the same areas
  • the tool is too large for small sections
  • the pins are too short for coat depth
  • the brush is uncomfortable to hold and control

Do not keep using a tool just because it is popular. The right brush is the one that fits the dog’s coat and can be used safely.

When a Brush Is Not Enough

A brush is not the solution for every coat problem.

Contact a professional groomer when:

  • mats are tight to the skin
  • several mats are joined together
  • the dog cries, growls, snaps, or panics
  • the skin cannot be seen
  • the coat has odor, moisture, or debris trapped inside
  • the dog has wounds, redness, swelling, or discharge
  • brushing sessions are becoming too stressful
  • you are unsure whether a mat can be handled safely

Contact a veterinarian when pain, infection, wounds, severe irritation, medical issues, or sedation questions may be involved.

Quick Recommendations

For many long-haired dogs:

Best overall brush type: slicker brush
Best gentle option: pin brush
Best finishing/checking tool: metal grooming comb
Best for thick coats: long-pin slicker brush
Best for shedding double coats: undercoat rake
Best finishing brush: soft bristle brush
Best safety rule: stop when the coat pulls painfully or the dog becomes distressed

A brush should make coat care easier, not turn grooming into a fight.

Use the Dog Brush and Comb Finder

Still unsure?

Use the free Dog Brush and Comb Finder to choose a brush-and-comb setup based on coat type, length, shedding, tangles, sensitivity, grooming goal, and dog size.

It can help you decide whether your dog is better suited for a slicker brush, pin brush, rubber brush, undercoat rake, metal comb, or a gentler approach.

Final Thoughts

The best brush for a long-haired dog is the one that reaches the coat properly without causing unnecessary pulling, fear, or irritation.

For many long-haired dogs, that means a slicker or pin brush for maintenance plus a metal comb to check the work.

Do not rely on surface brushing. Do not force tools through tight mats. Do not use sharp dematting tools casually. And do not wait until the coat becomes painful before adjusting the routine.

Long-haired coat care is easiest when small tangles are found early.

A few calm minutes with the right brush and comb can prevent a much harder grooming problem later.

Related Dematly Resources

Dematly provides general educational dog-grooming information and does not replace advice from a veterinarian or qualified professional groomer.

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